Thursday, 15 October 2026The story behind the things you thought you knewIssue Nº 013 · New story every weekday

Rice: one grain, dozens of dishes

Every rice dish here started with a problem. Feed a family, keep the meat, use what you have.

Rice is the plate everything else sits on. But each rice dish on this desk began as an answer to a problem.

Nasi lemak began as a simple coconut rice meal for farmers and fisherfolk on Malaysia's west coast. Rendang takes its name from a Minangkabau word for slow cooking. The method kept meat for months with no fridge. It came from West Sumatra long before it became festive food across the Malay world.

The dishes changed as they moved. A farmer's breakfast became a nation's. A preserved meat became a feast.

This desk follows each dish from the first pot to the plate you know.

Philippines

An illustration of the Backstory Asia globe mascot studying a clay pot of adobo through its magnifying glass, pork and chicken simmering in vinegar with garlic over a wood fire, beside a jar of palm vinegar, sugarcane, coarse salt and garlic on a woven mat, at a bamboo house by the water in the lowland Philippines, while a Spanish galleon lies at anchor far out in the bay.
Illustration: Backstory Asia, AI-generated

Adobo: a Filipino method with a Spanish name

Long before the Spanish came, Filipinos kept meat in vinegar and salt. Spanish chroniclers gave it a word they knew: adobo, meaning marinade.

Every story on this desk

Rice dishes: story, one-line hook, and place
Nasi lemak: the farmer's coconut rice first printed in 1875It began as a hearty breakfast for Malay farmers. Its first print record is from 1875: a Malay-French dictionary defines it as rice cooked with coconut milk.Malaysia · Singapore
Hainanese chicken rice: from Wenchang to SingaporeThe dish starts with Wenchang chicken from Hainan island. Hainanese cooks reworked it in 1920s and 1930s Singapore into the chicken rice plate you know today.Singapore · Malaysia
Adobo: a Filipino method with a Spanish nameLong before the Spanish came, Filipinos kept meat in vinegar and salt. Spanish chroniclers gave it a word they knew: adobo, meaning marinade.Philippines

A new story publishes every weekday.

More from the food desk

NoodlesBreads and pastries
Snacks and street food
Sweets and desserts
Drinks
Sauces and pastes
Soups and stews
Ingredients

From our bureaus